Sandra 1

AUSTRALIA


Joined April 8th 2008

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Melbourne Ugly? No!

December 8th 2008 12:55
Are you sick of the endless Melbourne vs. Sydney comparisons?

Australia's coporate hub (Sydney) and its arts capital (Melbs) are locked in perpetual battle, with Sydney characterised as sunny, bright, clean, wealthy and mainstream; full of peppy 'young professionals' with spray tans and good bodies. It's Australia's fresh-faced cheerleader.

Melbourne, on the other hand, is the ugly creature with the great personality. The one you marry in your thirties when you've grown up and stopped being shallow.

Cold, grey, wet and dingy, they say, with boho bars and cafes where you sit on crates. Lots of freaks in the streets.

BUT there's a great arts and music scene, and the people have character. Thank God for that.

If you ask me, the Melbourne bashers are way off base. Have you looked in the nooks and crannies of the city? That's what Melbourne is about: hidden delights. The bashers are the ones who fly in for a day: they'll visit the Telstra dome for a football game, wait in the rain outside Flinders St station, get accosted by a sermonising eccentric, visit the cheap part of Swanston St for a bit off shopping, then fly out.

There's a lot more to Melbourne than that. Here's my pictorial tribute to Melbourne the Beautiful.



Federation Square


Ferris Wheel at nighttime


Flinders Street Station


Old Architecture Meets New


St Patricks Cathedral


Treasury Gardens




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For Melbourne jazz afficionados there's no going past Bennetts Lane.

This dive (I say that with total affection) was one of the first places I visited when I moved here. Bennetts Lane itself (that is, Bennetts Lane the lane) is off Little Lonsdale St (here's their map) between Russell and Exhibition. You'll think you took a wrong turn but don't be fooled. Everything about the place is low key; a couple of lights at the end of the laneway signal the presence of a jazz institution. Cats dart between the cars and pillars outside.

Pay the hefty cover charge (I THINK there's always a cover, correct me if I'm wrong) and your Bennetts experience can begin. It's a dark room packed with die hard regulars- a real old school jazz club, as it's often been said. Settle down and enjoy the musical gymnastics. If you're lucky you'll catch saxophonist Jamie Oehlers- a regular (he actually recorded a Bennetts session in the bigger room next door) who has a lot of charm and is interesting to watch as well.

Avoid Bennetts Lane if you're feeling chatty or boisterous or if (god forbid) you're thinking the music will provide a nice background for your rapt socialising. It's all about the feature act. This is a crowd who hangs on the musicians' every note, cadence, tired exhalation, sideways shuffle and thirsty slurp of water. Don't even think about talking during the set or you'll incur the wrath of Bennetts' infamous 'shoosh' lady (I believe she's the wife of the owner).

Feel free to talk between sets though, you're likely to meet some interesting characters. The lights are dim, it's warm, everyone's packed together and the liquor is flowing. I'm sure a lot of ill-fated, marijuana fuelled hook-ups have happened here. And say hello to the cute blonde girl at the bar who always recommended good wines for me.

Click here for this weeks program at Bennetts Lane and past gig reviews.
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