Pardon My French: But What a Mouth-F**k!
September 19th 2006 00:27
That's what I thought after a 10 course degustation at Atelier in Sydney's bohemian and culinary paradise: Glebe. When you enter Atelier, you're greeted by a quaint little cottage front. The interior, however is a different story. Modern ambience with an old world charm is the best way to describe this restaurant. There's no pomp and ceremony here - just excellent service and a permeating sense of welcome. The cosy courtyard replete with roman columns is a welcome spot to perch on warmer evenings.
Bernadette Samardzija works the front of house with grace and decorum. Her passion for food is palpable and she appears to be omnipresent without coming off as intrusive. Darren Templeton brings poetry to the plate with a fusion of Brit-French cuisine. He matched our aged Chardy with a mind-blowing Tatare of Duck (yes the game worked well with the 20 year old Chardonnay), Parsnip Ice-Cream, Quail Eggs topped off with Fleur de Sel Grissini. The clincher came with his match for my 74 Latour which was a stunning Caramelised Onion and Piquillo Pepper Tarte Fine with a Smoked Tomato Sorbet. Also a favourite was the first dessert of Grand Marnier Pannacotta with Strawberry Granite'.
One of Templeton's secret weapons is the 'Paco Jet' - a tool used to make foam sauces, ice-creams and just about anything you can dream up. The Paco Jet is a tool used by those interested in the Molecular Cooking movement pioneered by characters like Ferran Adria at El Bulli (marked by some as the finest restaurant in the world.)
Overall Atelier is the finest restaurant experience I've had in some time. Not only does the food reek of hedonism and guilty pleasures, but the service lacks that Sydney attitude implemented by all too many stuffy, cold and clinical establishments in this city.
Atelier Restaurant - 22 Glebe Point Road, Glebe, 2037
Ph: 02 9566 2112
Fx: 02 9566 2115
email: eat@restaurantatelier.com.au
Cuisine: Modern European
Opening Hours: Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm
Dining Room: 45 seats
Private Dining Room: for 10 people (set menu applies)
Courtyard: seating for 20
Disabled Access & Toilet
Cards Accepted: Visa, Mastercard, Eftpos
Reservations Recommended
Fully Licensed & BYO Wine (corkage applies)
Click Here for Atelier's Web Site
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Comment by edward
Rocky's Running Diary
Comment by Jas
Stories: Put Them in Your Brain
Food, Wine and Coffee
One Planet
I actually thought of taking a camera to document the experience but chickened out at the last minute (images of loud-shirt-wearing, obnoxious touro's chanting "one of us...one of us" plagued my mind). Also Atelier's site doesn't really show off Darren's presentation skills which are very honed I must say. I will definitely snap away next visit.
Comment by Adrian
Philosophy Blog
Comment by Jas
Stories: Put Them in Your Brain
Food, Wine and Coffee
One Planet
Jas
Comment by Adrian
Philosophy Blog
Ambience: very friendly, homely, like you said. And place is kept spotless.
Service: very attentive. Glass of water always kept full.
Cost: not dear at all. Most of the mains there were around the $20 mark.
Food: one thing I found striking (I'm no foodie; so this is probably a pretty dumb comment) was the number of flavours combined in each dish, the richness of taste. Each bite was memorable. And how very satisfying it was to finish each course, and savour the aftertaste.
Very very full afterwards. Though, strangely enough, I didn't feel stuffed the following day (as I might have done after going to an all-you-can-eat buffet).
I dunno if it's the best I've eaten (I reckon Level 41 has finer food, and more surprises along the way), but in terms of quality eating, it might be the best value for money. Girlfriend was delighted. Thanks for the recommendation!
In February, we're going to check out Aria restaurant. I think you recommended this to me as well a while back.