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Toronto Christmas

December 27th 2008 19:46
When my plane arrived at the airport my heart sank…it looked like a white desert and snow was drifting and flowing fast in high wind like stripes of sand over the ground…it was like wilderness. We were three hours behind schedule and it was dark, and guess what, we had to wait for half an hour in the plane and then walk down an open air ladder to get off and go into the terminal…

I quickly learned it was not so bad though, because it got better on Christmas eve. It was not so cold any more, 1 degree centigrade, and the wind let off. In fact, it was so warm that the snow melted, and in every street corner pools formed at the curb. People tiptoed or jumped or waded across the pools. “This city sucks.” I overheard one comment while wading in a bigger pool. Maybe, but it still looks festive and light hearted with all the cheerful shops and brisk walking Christmas crowds. Eaton Center? Everybody was busy and happy and who cared about soaked boots. So many kids. And people circle skate in front of the city hall in the small rink and it just looked happy. Even the Art Gallery of Ontario was full of people. China town of course. “Chuck the chunky contract…Dodge the system access fee…Plans starting at $15…” The giant Koodo mobile ads were everywhere.


One more surprise? It rained in the evening…little drizzle, Christmas rain.

Christmas day was sunny. The curbside pools dried up and some became ice. The CN tower loomed clear and big in the blue sky. I went to the water front expecting to see an endless white frozen lake and skaters but it was sparkling blue water. The skaters? They were in a small tiny rink by the lake… People still walked on the street but many streets were quiet too. But anyway, this is my impression: it’s such a young and cheerful city, and weather’s got nothing to do with it…

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fountain & songs

November 26th 2008 16:53
Florence fountain pont vecchio


I made sure to drink from every fountain in Florence that I passed. They looked cute and I suspected the water was really good too.

The one on piazza Annunziata was really antique, with big 17th century bronze sculptures. One night I was sitting on the stairs of in front of the portico of the Spedale degli Innocenti and the summer night was warm and quiet with some pale water-ink like clouds behind the buildings. A pigeon was drinking on the edge of the fountain.

Then two young girls came sitting down on the stairs and like the passing of a breeze they started singing. I think they held a guitar and a small sort of drum to play the rhythm, and the song was passionate and free and flowed on and on. I guess it was like folk music, but I'd never heard anything like that. I couldn't believe it was in a city like Florence, two girls enjoying themselves in the summer evening. I remember seeing passer-bys hurry their way and hardly turn to have a look, as if it were really common place as a night breeze. For me it was beautiful beyond description.
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In line for David

November 20th 2008 17:58
There is a free and fake David in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, the same height, same posture, same everything. I bet nobody among millions of tourists can see any difference between it and the real Mechaelangelo David housed in the Galleria dell'Accademia on Ricasoli street. But people want to see the real one at all cost--I mean at the cost of 8 euro and standing two hours in line in the white hot summer sun, which I myself also did out of the thought that I must see this THE most famous statue in the world.

When I arrived there the line went all the way down Ricasoli till the street corner. Three people from California stood in front of me, a girl from Spain next to me, people were chatting. There were graffitis in various languages on the wall aside. "It's too hot." one small line said and I heartily agreed, because the afternoon sun was scorching and glaring everywhere and the line was hardly moving. There were carts selling souvenirs and one postcard read "The Backside of Florence" with the bottoms of all the famous statues. Lots of people stood or sat on the shady side of the street when their family or friends stood in line. Some were having gelato ice creams. Some went to peek through the gate because David stood right facing it. The narrow street looked like an expectant fair. And people at the end of line worried that they might not get in before the closing time.

And when I was finally IN I could hardly recover from the heat. David is right there, at the end of the hall under the dome. I tried to gather all my feelings to be struck by awe, but somehow couldn't. The dying and dropping slaves by Mechelangelo in the hall way shook me with their power, but David didn't. Was it the height? The fierce facial expression? or the one thousand picture-taking people around? or whatever the effect of seeing it too many times in pictures. Anyway I walked around to all angels and sat on the benches around and tried to take in all the shapes and curves, among the noises and bustles of the crowds. Then I went upstairs to see the other exhibits.

That was an afternoon for David. I stayed till the close time and when I went out of the gallery the narrow street was empty and quiet and no longer sunlit, hardly the same street. I went into a small store opposite the gallery and bought some snacks for supper. The food was so much more real than the statue under the dome...
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Vivaldi on plaza Signoria

November 15th 2008 04:08
Plaza Signoria seems to be a hub of events and performances in Florence. One of the nights I was there stage was set up for a concert of Vivaldi's concertos. To my surprise when I got there in the evening the square was jammed with crowds, and people patiently stood close next to each other waiting for the beginning of the concert. I was guessing most people were local, the way they were so quiet and calm and almost seemed to be doing their daily routine standing there in the summer night. A small group of people in the middle of the crowds sat down on the ground and started shouting out in choir: "SE TUTTE" which apparently meant "sit down"--they wanted everyone to sit down especially people in the front. The small campaign however failed when nobody else wanted to se tutte and the group stood back up. A tourist girl next to me was pointing her video camera to the stage. "Why am I filming this..." she said meaning why she was shooting before anything started. A girl was squeezing her way by and lectured flatly with heavy accent, "You're filming before Vivaldi is one of the greatest composer ever!" "What?" The camera girl looked like she couldn't believe her ears.

I don't remember the music any more but it went on and on for about three hours. The pianist captured a lot of attention with his animated stances and movements. The audience? They just stood and listened, again, as if it was their daily routine. In the middle of the concert a bit commotion started in one spot of the crowd, and it turned out a man fainted. People around made room, some were helping, some police and medical people soon came and evacuated him away, and the music was never interrupted


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too many floweries

November 10th 2008 03:35
Florence postcards art


Pont Vecchio was lined on both sides with jewelry shops. I was totally captivated by the jewelries and couldn't walk on. Imagine necklaces, pendants, rings, studs, pins embedded with intricate tiny pieces of stones of multi colors, bracelets with yellow and white gold wrung into a fine curve that dazzles with the rounded twists and turns, little pieces of pale amethyst with numerous facets, pins of tiny gold leaves or flowers with special finish that looked both so soft and solid, small carved gemstone roses with curved edge petals... they seem to have something in common, which I guess I can only say "florentine", with that vintage inclination and ravish feminine beauties


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A church

November 6th 2008 17:41
Florence street


Walking the streets of Florence was great fun for me. The old peeled walls along the narrow, ancient lanes so easily lend themselves to a mystic ambience, especially in the early morning with the slanting lights. One morning I passed a church around Street St Monaca and went in for no reason. It was a modest looking church that wasn't even on my map, and I was shocked to see frescos on the walls, dated 12th and 13th centuries. Some parts of the frescos had fallen off and were painted over with white paint. The result was a fragment in the middle of the empty wall teeming with life, should have disappeared but hadn't... it gave me more shocking sensation than paintings in the museums, because they grew out of and were still alive there and then in that small and empty church, not on display but just part of daily life. A care taker walked around and turned off the lights one by one, patiently waited till I went out and locked the door. It was a strange experience...
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Florence: labyrinth in the hostel

October 27th 2008 15:42
The hostel I lived in Florence was in a 15th century building on street Santa Monica. The staircases were mystifying because to go the bathroom I needed to go out of the dorm room, turn right and cross a door, go forward passing two staircases, then go down some stairs and then go up some others ahead, turn left and cross a door, go ahead and turn left, enter a door and go down a land of stairs, and finally arrive.

Kind of charming journey—I think I’d seen Renaissance paintings with labyrinth staircases, and now I was in one. So Florence, obsessed with flora and flowery patterns, spread the rooms and staircases like petals and plants too


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Florence

October 23rd 2008 15:51
If I could choose to live any cities in the world Florence would be one of them, which I visited briefly last summer.

Here's testimonial by Marcel Proust "When I produced the words 'going to Florence'....what I saw was in no sense a town, but...something as delicious, as might be, for a human race whose whole existence had passed in a series of late winter afternoons, that inconceivable marvel, a morning in spring." I hope I understand right what he said: Florence is different, Florence rocks


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Passing Ottawa

October 19th 2008 03:06
Ottawa parliament building


Ottawa is clean, spacious, nice, laidback


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show Quebec 400 aniversary


July 2008, part of the 400th anniversary celebration in Quebec. The settlers were to sail and discover land, live with wilderness and animals, fight nature and elements, build homes and homeland, arm and battle and die...on the little square on Rue petit Champlain. a history lesson for me. There was an interactive element to the show; for example, some tourists became the ocean waves and sailboats in the beginning scene (picture). The whole show had magic and kaleidoscope shifts of scenes and deft theme dances with a tiny though charming space and a handful of performers (very professional), and incorporated some imporvising and also jesting elements, under the brisk manoeuvres of the lively directress with a microphone on her chin--it was really good


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