Ella P

UNITED STATES


Joined August 24th 2006

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Recent Posts

Getting the Chop (2)

September 4th 2006 09:34
Last time I talked generally about some of the advantages of going for the chop and some of the things worth considering. If you’ve read that and still feel like going short, here are some points to think about and some planning you can do in order to get the best possible result.

First and foremost, read the post on getting a major style change (August 31st), as all the points made there apply to going from long to short. Here are a few extra, more specific, points to consider as well.

Risks Going From Long to Short

Hair Texture
Going short is particularly risky for certain people. It’s risky for people with very curly hair (does anyone remember when Felicity actress Keri Russell went short?) and for people with fluffy and/or frizzy hair, who may need wax type products to control their hair when the weight of the lengths is cut off. Even if you have never had short hair, if you’ve ever had a fringe, the way it behaved should be a clue as to how your hair will sit when short. Finally, don’t forget that your hair’s texture can change – sometimes dramatically – as you get older, so that bob that looked so cute when you were seven or eight might not sit that way when you’re twenty.

Face Shape
There’s also more risk for people with particular face shapes. A round face can be greatly accentuated by certain short styles and, at worst, you may end up looking like a kindly old grandma with a very young face! Keep some layers long (an inch or two below the jaw) to lengthen the face. Avoid having the same length all over if your hair is curly or springy, as this will produce the ‘grandma’ look. Also avoid a blunt, chin length bob or a short, blunt fringe if you have a round face.

Another tricky face shape for some short styles is a very square jaw as a prominent jaw can be greatly emphasised by very short styles and blunt cuts, such as sharp bobs. This can have the effect of making you look a bit masculine (though if you like this look, that’s fine). Soft wispy layers around and just below the jawline work best and the shorter top layers or fringe should balance out the jaw.

Long faces also need a balanced cut; just as long straight hair parted in the middle will drag down a long face, so too a ‘top heavy’ short cut with nothing at all around the jawline will emphasise the length of your face. But long oval faces can look great with a sharp bob cut at the jawline (not above). Long faces also benefit from a long wispy fringe, but definitely not a short, blunt fringe! Shag cuts look great on long and oval faces.

If your face is what is commonly referred to as ‘heart-shaped’, avoid blunt cuts where possible. If you are lucky, you may be able to pull of an Amelie style bob (go slightly above the jawline). In general, though, you will need a layered, textured bob. But – lucky you – you look amazing with a pixie cut (just like a pixie, in fact)! There are many more guidelines on this and I may talk about this more in subsequent posts. However, even though face shapes can to some extent be generalised, each face is unique!

No Going Back (not for a while anyway)
The most important thing to remember is that once your hair has been cut (unless you are wealthy enough to afford hair extensions – and even then you need to have sufficient length to attach them) you just have to wait for it to grow back before restyling it. For this reason, if you are going for the chop for the first time (or the first time since childhood), always go a little longer than your target style to start with. That way, if you don’t like it you still have some length to work with – you can get some added layers put in to make it more manageable, re-shape the style, tie or clip it back (if things are really bad) and, most importantly, it won’t take as long to grow out. Remember, your hair only grows roughly half an inch a month.


Products and Styling

The products you use will depend on your style. If you are lucky you won’t need anything much at all, but if your hair is a little difficult to manage I like a good serum for a bob and a wax or glossing balm for a pixie or shag cut. For a sleek look I really like Redken’s ‘glass’ smoothing serum. There are cheaper serums on the market, but this one is great and lasts really well. For a more textured cut I love John Frieda’s ‘readytowear’ Shaping and Glossing Balm – there’s also one in this range especially for blonde hair. This lasts for ages as you only need a very small amount on the ends of your hair. It does wonders and the best part is that this product works to control frizz and curls or to add body to flat hair!

If your hair isn’t a ‘wash and wear’ style or is prone to frizzing, have a plan for times when you might not be able to blow-dry and style it or when it might get rather frazzled by the elements– for example, a day at the beach or a day outdoors in the wind and rain. This can be a problem if your hair is now too short to tie back. Perhaps you could throw some wax in your bag (though it may not stand up all that well to the heat!). Tiny butterfly clips or slide clips and/or headbands can be helpful in this situation. Hopefully though, if you’ve got the right cut for your hair, it should still dry looking OK, even if not perfect. If all else fails, there’s always a cute cap or beanie ; ) But remember that looking a little ‘carefree’ can be charming sometimes too.


Get Inspired

I don’t want all this to put you off going short as it can be so much fun to experiment with your look. In some cases you will even find that you’ll be able to try different clothes, jewellery, accessories, make-up and hair colours with your chic new style. Have fun with it!! Back to Audrey, momentarily, remember how, in Roman Holiday, she’s practically walking on air as she walks down the street with her new ‘do’; or in Sabrina, how chic she looks after she gets that “horse’s tail” chopped off. If you’ve had long hair forever and want a change but need inspiration, look to some of the women who have looked hot with short styles – bobs, shags, crops and pixie cuts: Cameron Diaz, Samaire Armstrong, Natalie Portman, Gwyneth Paltrow (in Sliding Doors), Audrey Tautou (in Amelie) Bessie Bardot and many more. Post a comment if you have a favourite celebrity short style to add to this list!
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Getting the Chop (1)

September 2nd 2006 09:02
Getting your hair cut short from long can be exciting, liberating and fun, but at the same time it is almost always a bit scary. It’s especially nerve-wracking if you’ve had long hair for a long time or even for as long as you can remember!

A Transitional Style

If your hair is very long and has been that way for some time, a responsible hairdresser will probably be apprehensive about cutting your hair very short in one go. Many will suggest you try a length just above the shoulders, like a long bob, first. I think this is a good idea if your decision to go for the chop has been made on impulse. Of course, the degree of risk involved in going short depends to an extent on several factors; namely, how manageable your hair is at different lengths, how quickly it grows and which hair styles best suit your face shape. By giving proper consideration to each of these issues, you can maximise the chances that your new style will be fresh and fun rather than a terrible mistake. Sometimes, if you are really unsure of how your hair will look and behave when shorter, a transitional style can help you work out if shorter hair is for you as well as giving you scope to change the style if it isn't working.

The Dream and The Reality

Variables
People vary considerably with respect to the variables mentioned above. I first went from long hair to a short bob at about 13 years old. My hair was cut into a one length bob with no layers and it stuck out so far at the bottom (in an extreme triangle shape) that I wore the top layers tied back every single day until it grew long enough to tie it all back – I became the pony-tail girl!! Year later, I went from long to short again. This time I did my research and started with a layered cut just above the shoulders, later moving on to a very short sharp bob, which I loved and kept for several years, and a cute shag cut which was really flattering and easy to look after. I decided that this was as short as I could go with my face shape, but girls with small features look gorgeous with pixie cuts. I wished I could be like Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday and simply walk into a cheap barber's, get my long hair chopped off into a cute pixie style and look completely amazing. But my features are not much like Audrey Hepburn’s and Roman Holiday is, after all, a work of fiction.

Pros and Cons
Each short cut I had worked well, though the bob required daily styling of my thick hair to keep it looking good. There were a couple of other things I found slightly annoying about short hair. One was not being able to tie it back when I’d been swimming, didn’t have time to wash and style it or was just having a bad hair day. Another was that, having quite thick, sometimes frizzy, hair, without the weight of the length, I needed a few products to help make the hair more manageable (and less puffy). On the plus side, a good short cut can be extremely flattering to your face, it’s quicker to wash, dry and style and it’s sassy and chic. It can also be easier to experiment with hair colours on shorter hair and to keep it in good condition.

If Only
When I decided to go long again it took several years to get my hair to the length I wanted. I was always a little envious of a friend of mine. She had long thick brunette hair which was always shiny and hung in perfect waves. One summer, on impulse during a heatwave because the air-conditioner was broken, she went to a fairly cheap hairdresser’s and had her hair cut into a very short layered bob. She’d had long hair for years and had given little thought to changing her hairstyle, but the summer cut looked fantastic – fresh, cool and summery. And I swear that by late the winter after next her hair was right down to her waist again! Not all of us are so lucky, so next time I'll suggest some concrete tips for making sure that when you go for the chop you feel great about the result.

In Need of a Pick-Me-Up
'Getting the chop' is one of those things that is often associated with a sense of youth, freedom, independence and, above all, a new start. That feeling is captured in a number of films where the heroine gets her long hair cut off (and of course looks gorgeous). Getting your hair cut short has also become associated with post break-up re-defining of self, freedom and assertion of indpendence. All of these are wonderful and positive associations, and the power of thought can be amazingly effective. However, if you are still raw from a break-up or some other upheaval, all the more reason not to be too impulsive about a major style change. The last thing you need right now is another disappointment or reason to feel down on yourself! But go about it in the right way and you will get that buzz and feeling of newness you are hoping for : )
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Changing Your Style

August 31st 2006 08:51
This time I’m going to talk about making a major style change and the planning you can do in order to get a result you can be excited about; not devastated!!

Inspiration

The first thing to do is to choose a few styles you like. Magazines are a great source of inspiration. Specialist hair magazines are great for this, but they can be expensive, so if you buy a particular women’s magazine regularly, try looking through old issues of that first. In particular, look out for hair specials in women’s magazines which often have a lot of photos of different cuts and styles, sometimes with added tips (such as what kinds of cuts suit particular face shapes). You might even see a style you love in a film – if so, try to find a still from the film online which has a picture of the style. Bear in mind that the pictures and styles which inspire you might do so partly because you admire the way a particular celebrity or model looks. But their style might not work on you if your hair is a different texture and/or your face a different shape (not to mention that you might not have the luxury of a personal hairstylist at your beck and call). So try to choose a few alternatives you feel excited about at this stage.

Choosing a style

1. Face Shape
Standing in front of a mirror holding your hair up as if it were short isn’t a very good indication of how a short style will actually look. Likewise with other styles. A great way to work out if a certain style will suit your face shape is to try on some wigs. If you go to a wig shop to do this, you should ask for assistance so you don’t damage any of the wigs. This should give you a good idea of what styles flatter your face shape (you might be surprised!). (Incidentally, this tactic can also be helpful before making a radical colour change.) You never know, you may even find a wig you’d like to buy for fun. Costume shops and costume hire places also often have wigs you can try. An alternative to trying on wigs is the old trick of using those cut out pictures of hairstyles behind which you can insert a passport sized photo of your own face. This can give you a rough idea of what works, but I haven’t found it particularly helpful, since the pictures often don’t sit well with one another, giving a false impression of how the style would look. If you feel you can be honest with yourself about your face shape (try drawing an outline in the mirror) then you might even just be able to tell from a picture which models or celebrities have a similar face shape. But you need to be honest here and not set yourself up for disappointment – the new cut won’t make you look like that person!! Try to narrow your style search down to about two or three at this stage.

2. Your Hair
Is your hair curly, wavy or dead straight? Is it thick, frizzy and course? Or is it fine, thin or fluffy? It might be a combination of the above. For example some people have course frizzy hair underneath and fine, fluffy hair on the top layers. What challenges do you face in styling your hair now, and how (logically) do you think losing some weight from the lengths of your hair will affect the way your hair sits?

3. Your Lifestyle
How much time do you realistically have each day to spend styling your hair? Do you tend to wash you hair and then leave it to dry, or do you enjoy blow-drying and styling your hair? Do you swim and/or work out regularly? Do you need to wear a helmet for cycling, motor cycling, horse riding, etc. on a regular basis, or a hat because you work outdoors? The answers to these questions should give an idea of the degree of maintenance you are looking for in a style.

With respect to (b) and (c), you should discuss these issues with a hairdresser you trust in the consultation which precedes your cut. Actually, the above represent some of the questions a good stylist will probably ask of you during the consultation.

Going to the Hairdresser’s

1. Choosing a Hairdresser
If you have a hairdresser you’ve been going to for a while and trust, stick with them (unless you don’t like what they’ve been doing with your hair – more on that another time). Your regular hairdresser knows your hair and will be able to help guide you through a major style change. They may even suggest some stages you can go through to move towards your desired style if you don’t have the length, your hair isn’t in good enough condition, or you are scared to go very short in one go. If you don’t have a regular hairdresser, ask around to get a recommendation or look for local recommendations online! If you are going to a new stylist at the same time as making a drastic change, such as going from long to short, it probably is worth paying for a style director or art director, who is more experienced at creating new styles and working with different kinds of hair.

2. Consultation
Make the most of your pre-cut consultation. Don’t rush it and make sure you cover the questions discussed above. Show your hairdresser a photo of the style you would like, but have a back-up plan in case your hairdresser thinks the style you’ve chosen simply won’t work on your hair (perhaps because it’s the wrong texture (too thin, too curly) or because you have awkward ‘cow-licks’ on your hairline, etc.). If this happens, don’t be too stubborn or downcast about it, but discuss an alternative with your hairdresser. They may even show you some more pictures to make sure that both of you have the same thing in mind before they start cutting. Because this consultation will take longer than one for a standard trim, it might be worth mentioning when you make your appointment that you are making a big style change and would like to discuss it first. If you give the salon the heads up they are likely to take more time with you.

3. During the Cut
This is not the time to sit back and get caught up in a magazine or a conversation with your hairdresser. Keep a watchful eye on what they are doing just in case they have really misunderstood what you wanted. A particular risk with short styles is that if they cut too much off in a certain place or all over, you will have to wait some time for the hair to grow before it can be fixed. Of course, with your hair wet, it’s not always easy to see what they are doing. If things do wrong, get your hairdresser to fix it. A friend with slightly wavy hair once went for a Meg Ryan style shag cut and came out with hair roughly half an inch long all over. Because she had taken a photo of what she wanted to the salon and her stylist had said she could do that, the salon gave my friend free cuts until her hair had grown out enough to achieve the style she’d initially asked for. Still, nobody wants to be put in that position, so stay alert.

4. Blow-dry
This is one time when it is definitely worth paying a little extra to get you hair blow-dried and styled. Watch closely what your hairdresser does and ask them about the appliances and products they are using. That should give an idea of how to style your new cut so that you can make the most of it!

Products and Styling

You will probably need to use different products for your new style. Ask your hairdresser’s advice on this one but don’t splash out on the most expensive brand until you have experimented a little yourself as you may find that certain products build up too much over time or don’t last through the day. This might also be a great excuse to splash out on some new hair accessories; cute sparkly clips, scarves, headbands – whatever works.
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Growing Your Hair Long (2)

August 28th 2006 11:32
Let’s say you are growing your hair long and start with a shag cut or a short bob with some layers, the longest of which are at the nape of your neck. It will take three to four years at least before your hair is waist length. That’s a long time, and the biggest hurdle people face in growing their hair is running out of patience with the in-between stages. If this is a problem for you and you always regret not carrying through later, consider the following points.

If you are in your late twenties or thirties, and have been thinking about growing your hair, go long while you can still make the most of it. For most people, once you get past a certain age, long hair, especially worn loose, only accentuates the effects of gravity and aging


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Growing Your Hair Long(1)

August 26th 2006 11:20
Major changes of style are exciting, but that excitement is dulled, to say the least, when you grow your hair from short to long. It seems to take forever and, in fact, it can take several years.

For a while now, I’ve had waist length hair. I’ve often had girls comment that their hair just won’t grow that long. Indeed, if you have very thin and super fine hair, it is unlikely to get to that length because of breakage. It probably wouldn’t look great even if you could get it that long, as the length tends to drag the hair flatter, and make it appear thinner, than it really is. But if your hair is relatively robust, it will grow. All it takes is patience. Here are a few things to bear in mind


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Getting a Great Cut

August 24th 2006 10:15
A bit of an intro ... This blog is for people who really care about their hair – maybe even obsess over it a little – but it’s also for those of you who either object to paying hundreds of dollars at the hairdressers every couple of months, or simply can’t afford to do so. It aims to give helpful tips for those of you who enjoy changing their hair often, and often by DIY methods, but still want it to look like you’ve been to the salon. I’ll cover topics from what to ask for at the hairdressers to major DIY colour changes. But let’s start with one thing you should never do yourself – yep, that’s right – never cut your own hair. And, unless you’re a pretty good hairdresser, that also applies to fringes!!!

I have twice previously, during bouts of poverty, attempted this foolish act. My rationale was that I had watched my own hairdressers closely, knew the basics of cutting hair and could see my own fringe in the mirror. But it didn’t quite work out as planned … On one occasion my long, side-swept fringe ended up somewhat lopsided, and you can probably imagine how my attempts to recreate an Audrey Hepburn style ultra short, wispy fringe turned out; especially as my hair tends to bounce up when short. Never again


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