'Boazodoallu' - I will never forget this!
April 20th 2010 23:51
Time: 11:18pm Date: 20/04/2010 Location: My Bedroom, Kautokeino
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to move a reindeer herd of about 2,000, drive a snow mobile at 60km/h on a frozen lake, ride on a sledge behind a snow mobile travelling at 60km/h or eat reindeer tongue? Well, I just experienced all of them in the space of one amazing day!
The group of us began our trek a bit after 10am. We met a Sámi couple who lived near the university in Kautokeino - well I guess everyone lives near the university in Kautokeino. Anyway, she took us to her house where a few of us could prepare ourselves for the long journey ahead. Thanks to my parents, Mountain Designs, Anaconda and Kathmandu, I had everything I needed already =)! The sun was out and the weather was perfect. We prepped the snowmobiles and sledge for us to all fit on - which was softly covered by reindeer fur - and then we set off to meet the herd. The plan was to take them down one mountain, across a river, up the other side, then down another mountain, across another river and then up the other side. Basically, before the summer begins at the start of June, the herd needs to be at the coastline where they spend the entire season. There, they are let go where they can roam around and have some space. When September comes, the herd is separated from the other herds which have mixed together and brought back inland for the winter. It hadn't really occurred to me that as reindeer herders, this was the Sámi people’s way of life as well as employment but after the joys of today, I think I could get used to it.
With three on one snowmobile and four of us on the sledge (me included), I thought I was going to die. We didn't quite have a seating system worked out by this stage and with nothing to hold onto, I nearly fell off a couple of times. As the reindeer skin was very slippery beneath your ski pants and I was facing backwards; I ended up lying down and just started to laugh, as I feared for my safety! It was quite an amusing sight and at the end of the day - it made it all the more fun!
When we reached the herd, the view was amazing, not realising that it was about to get better. Apparently, the herd was very restless during the night and wanted to move on so we wouldn't stay long. The chance to take a few pictures and then back on the sledge for another chance to fall off! But this time we had a system worked out. The idea was to sit in a chain like 'Cool Running’s', one behind another. This proved to be much more hostile and safe than what we had going before. By this time we had about six snow mobiles; all of which the drivers were cousins of the man. Therefore with the snowmobiles acting as barriers for the reindeer, we moved the herd to the direction in which we were headed. As long as we were positioned well behind the reindeer, it was pretty easy because like all herd animals do: they follow the pack. Some of the reindeer had cowbells on for the herders to know where they were at all times. Another point to add is that, it was quite a fair effort being carried out by a lot of the female reindeer as they are expected to give birth in the middle of next month (May).
The next stop changed my day dramatically...I got to DRIVE the snow mobile, whilst herding the reindeer. If any of you have driven in the car with me before, I occasionally like to put the revs on a bit - this was no exception! I was eager to see how fast these things go and boy, when you pick up some serious speed...it is so much fun! In addition, my vehicle was pulling the food sledge as well so I felt like I had a huge responsibility bestowed upon me. Driving a snow mobile is like a motorcycle. You have to balance it by leaning to the opposite side of the way you are turning in order to balance it and not tip over. However, having never ridden a motorbike before I did not know this and when going up a hill and trying to steer around a tree at the same time, I tipped over. Luckily, I was ok but my friend Georgie was not =( I did not realise at the time but the weight of the vehicle landed on her leg and she now has a nasty bruise to prove it. She'll be right though! Driving these things is a lot harder than you think - it's more than just a throttle and break. However, it was so good steering the reindeer in the middle of the Arctic Circle, driving a snow mobile. Life could not get any better. Well I didn't think so...
As a couple of the guys kept guard over the reindeer herd, the rest of us found a post to pitch our tent (well teepee actually) on the top of this mountain. The view was spectacular. All around, there were new mountains to discover, other reindeer herds to spot and forests that went on for miles. You could even see over the border to the Finnish mountains. Wow...just breathtaking! While Georgie rested her leg, the rest of us went in search of rocks to make a fire, whilst picking berries from the ground and eating them. Not long after; the teepee was set up, the fire was going and food was being served. Seated on reindeer skin inside the teepee around the fire, we would use sticks to cook sausages. However, we were not here to eat packet produce - we were here to eat the real wild stuff: what else but reindeer. There was dried reindeer, raw reindeer, boiled reindeer and even reindeer tongue. I ate it all! You had to. You only live once and you felt like to experience their culture fully; you needed to eat whatever they did. Surprisingly, it was all extremely tasty and satisfying. The raw reindeer meat was a bit of a delicacy as it sells for around 1000 Krones per kilo. This equates to around 126 Euro or 182 Australian dollars. Apart from this though, the woman kept handing us all this food. She was so nice, in fact they all were. There was chocolate, yoghurt, bread, cheese, scrolls, oranges and even billy tea was boiling over the fire. The food was endless but the day was ending so we had to get a move on. I did learn how to chuck a lasso though before we left. The Sámi people called me 'Crocodile Dundee'! As we ventured back, we left the teepee standing because the husband had to return to watch the herd during the night! What a demanding yet exhilarating lifestyle!
On the way back home, there was news that three Finnish reindeer had crossed the border last week and needed to be returned. As two had already been captured and brought back, we still needed to capture the final one. How do they know which one is the Finnish reindeer, I hear you ask? Well, each reindeer that belongs to a particular herd will all have the same markings on their ear. Therefore, a reindeer, which does not belong to a specific herd, will have a different marking on its ear. I guess herding reindeer as a full-time job; you must learn to get to know several different reindeer herds as well as their associated markings. This was done successfully and the poor thing was tied up and put on the sledge to be immediately taken back to where it belongs. Finally, there was time for one more thing...
Ice-fishing!! Having done this previously in Finnish Lapland unsuccessfully, I was really eager to catch a fish. We found a spot on the frozen lake and made a small hole for our rod to fit through. Then we waited...and waited...and waited! Like last time, no luck. However, whilst sitting there, I was able to enjoy the magnificent landscape and delightful weather. Although it would have been approximately -8, with the sun out I was not cold at all!
The last stop on our journey was at the road where the Sámi couples' 20-year-old daughter would pick us up. The reason I tell you her age is because the mother clearly wanted to set me up. It was so obvious as the others wanted to return home on the snowmobiles and sledge but I HAD to go in the car. I had no choice! There I was; me in the passenger seat next to the daughter who was driving with the mother in the backseat conversing in Sámi and English with her daughter about me. Joy! As they dropped me home, the mother concludes with "You'll be seeing Ingra (her daughter) a lot at the pub then." Well since there's nothing else to do around here, 'yes, yes I will!'
High and Mighty! Marion riding shotgun on one of the snowmobiles with the maginificent view for where we pitched our teepee!
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to move a reindeer herd of about 2,000, drive a snow mobile at 60km/h on a frozen lake, ride on a sledge behind a snow mobile travelling at 60km/h or eat reindeer tongue? Well, I just experienced all of them in the space of one amazing day!
The group of us began our trek a bit after 10am. We met a Sámi couple who lived near the university in Kautokeino - well I guess everyone lives near the university in Kautokeino. Anyway, she took us to her house where a few of us could prepare ourselves for the long journey ahead. Thanks to my parents, Mountain Designs, Anaconda and Kathmandu, I had everything I needed already =)! The sun was out and the weather was perfect. We prepped the snowmobiles and sledge for us to all fit on - which was softly covered by reindeer fur - and then we set off to meet the herd. The plan was to take them down one mountain, across a river, up the other side, then down another mountain, across another river and then up the other side. Basically, before the summer begins at the start of June, the herd needs to be at the coastline where they spend the entire season. There, they are let go where they can roam around and have some space. When September comes, the herd is separated from the other herds which have mixed together and brought back inland for the winter. It hadn't really occurred to me that as reindeer herders, this was the Sámi people’s way of life as well as employment but after the joys of today, I think I could get used to it.
With three on one snowmobile and four of us on the sledge (me included), I thought I was going to die. We didn't quite have a seating system worked out by this stage and with nothing to hold onto, I nearly fell off a couple of times. As the reindeer skin was very slippery beneath your ski pants and I was facing backwards; I ended up lying down and just started to laugh, as I feared for my safety! It was quite an amusing sight and at the end of the day - it made it all the more fun!
When we reached the herd, the view was amazing, not realising that it was about to get better. Apparently, the herd was very restless during the night and wanted to move on so we wouldn't stay long. The chance to take a few pictures and then back on the sledge for another chance to fall off! But this time we had a system worked out. The idea was to sit in a chain like 'Cool Running’s', one behind another. This proved to be much more hostile and safe than what we had going before. By this time we had about six snow mobiles; all of which the drivers were cousins of the man. Therefore with the snowmobiles acting as barriers for the reindeer, we moved the herd to the direction in which we were headed. As long as we were positioned well behind the reindeer, it was pretty easy because like all herd animals do: they follow the pack. Some of the reindeer had cowbells on for the herders to know where they were at all times. Another point to add is that, it was quite a fair effort being carried out by a lot of the female reindeer as they are expected to give birth in the middle of next month (May).
The next stop changed my day dramatically...I got to DRIVE the snow mobile, whilst herding the reindeer. If any of you have driven in the car with me before, I occasionally like to put the revs on a bit - this was no exception! I was eager to see how fast these things go and boy, when you pick up some serious speed...it is so much fun! In addition, my vehicle was pulling the food sledge as well so I felt like I had a huge responsibility bestowed upon me. Driving a snow mobile is like a motorcycle. You have to balance it by leaning to the opposite side of the way you are turning in order to balance it and not tip over. However, having never ridden a motorbike before I did not know this and when going up a hill and trying to steer around a tree at the same time, I tipped over. Luckily, I was ok but my friend Georgie was not =( I did not realise at the time but the weight of the vehicle landed on her leg and she now has a nasty bruise to prove it. She'll be right though! Driving these things is a lot harder than you think - it's more than just a throttle and break. However, it was so good steering the reindeer in the middle of the Arctic Circle, driving a snow mobile. Life could not get any better. Well I didn't think so...
As a couple of the guys kept guard over the reindeer herd, the rest of us found a post to pitch our tent (well teepee actually) on the top of this mountain. The view was spectacular. All around, there were new mountains to discover, other reindeer herds to spot and forests that went on for miles. You could even see over the border to the Finnish mountains. Wow...just breathtaking! While Georgie rested her leg, the rest of us went in search of rocks to make a fire, whilst picking berries from the ground and eating them. Not long after; the teepee was set up, the fire was going and food was being served. Seated on reindeer skin inside the teepee around the fire, we would use sticks to cook sausages. However, we were not here to eat packet produce - we were here to eat the real wild stuff: what else but reindeer. There was dried reindeer, raw reindeer, boiled reindeer and even reindeer tongue. I ate it all! You had to. You only live once and you felt like to experience their culture fully; you needed to eat whatever they did. Surprisingly, it was all extremely tasty and satisfying. The raw reindeer meat was a bit of a delicacy as it sells for around 1000 Krones per kilo. This equates to around 126 Euro or 182 Australian dollars. Apart from this though, the woman kept handing us all this food. She was so nice, in fact they all were. There was chocolate, yoghurt, bread, cheese, scrolls, oranges and even billy tea was boiling over the fire. The food was endless but the day was ending so we had to get a move on. I did learn how to chuck a lasso though before we left. The Sámi people called me 'Crocodile Dundee'! As we ventured back, we left the teepee standing because the husband had to return to watch the herd during the night! What a demanding yet exhilarating lifestyle!
On the way back home, there was news that three Finnish reindeer had crossed the border last week and needed to be returned. As two had already been captured and brought back, we still needed to capture the final one. How do they know which one is the Finnish reindeer, I hear you ask? Well, each reindeer that belongs to a particular herd will all have the same markings on their ear. Therefore, a reindeer, which does not belong to a specific herd, will have a different marking on its ear. I guess herding reindeer as a full-time job; you must learn to get to know several different reindeer herds as well as their associated markings. This was done successfully and the poor thing was tied up and put on the sledge to be immediately taken back to where it belongs. Finally, there was time for one more thing...
Ice-fishing!! Having done this previously in Finnish Lapland unsuccessfully, I was really eager to catch a fish. We found a spot on the frozen lake and made a small hole for our rod to fit through. Then we waited...and waited...and waited! Like last time, no luck. However, whilst sitting there, I was able to enjoy the magnificent landscape and delightful weather. Although it would have been approximately -8, with the sun out I was not cold at all!
The last stop on our journey was at the road where the Sámi couples' 20-year-old daughter would pick us up. The reason I tell you her age is because the mother clearly wanted to set me up. It was so obvious as the others wanted to return home on the snowmobiles and sledge but I HAD to go in the car. I had no choice! There I was; me in the passenger seat next to the daughter who was driving with the mother in the backseat conversing in Sámi and English with her daughter about me. Joy! As they dropped me home, the mother concludes with "You'll be seeing Ingra (her daughter) a lot at the pub then." Well since there's nothing else to do around here, 'yes, yes I will!'
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