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Beatles, Dengue Fever and the 102-year-old Yogi

November 9th 2007 01:32
The Ashram
Hannuman Watches over the Ashram in Rishikesh
It was with an attitude of determination and scepticism that I entered into a course of yoga, breathing and meditation. The setting was inspiring; Rishekesh, Yoga capital of the world, where the Beatles, (except Ringo, who got bored) based themselves for their spiritual adventures in India. This move to the Maharashi, claimed Hunter S Thompson, marked the admittance of defeat to the 60’s generation; the dream of self realisation through mind expanding drugs was over, and those optimistic neophytes in California realised the way was, after all, through instruction, discipline and God.


I pessimistically wondered if I would posses a type of hippy mind, too erratic to be silenced by my own will, too chaotic for tranquility. I was prepared to give peace a chance and however spectacularly I failed it would improve my health through enforced abstinence. One of the fortunate charms of Rishekesh, for the weak willed, is that it is impossible to buy meat or alcohol, in the city (although every second man in an orange sari asks you if you want hash or marihuana).

Alicia and I had intended to head straight to an ashram upon arrival, but after the harrowing ordeal on a slow choking bus all night, at 4am we sought the closest and cheapest hotel we could find. The place turned out to be exceptionally cheap, clean and comfortable and perched high above the sacred Ganges River. We checked out the Ashram the following morning, and found out courses would begin in a couple of days.


Perfect, I thought.

India has a habit of suprising, and when unprepared India will cough up something a little unpredictable to catch you unawares. For us it entailed an unpleasant few days bedridden with Dengue fever. At least that is what I assumed it was, as I had the exact symptoms described in that most infallible of medical textbooks, the Lonely Planet. Transmitted by mosquitos it is ubiquitous throughout the Subcontinent. It is highly communicable, however the first time it is contracted you are relatively safe. It is the second and third time that sometimes prove fatal.

After recovering from the effects of this unpleasant fever we moved into the ashram a few days later, looking forward to meeting the legendary Guru in residence there; he is 102 years old and sleeps only 4 hours a night! Impressive. Access to the venerable man was by appointment only, and I felt Alicia and I should settle in to the place and think of some profound questions before tapping this ancient source of wisdom for inspiration. In the meantime there was Swamiji, a charismatic man who conducted lectures and morning meditation sessions.
The Sacred Ganges River
Wash in the Ganges and be cleansed of Sin


Between the 7am 1-hour of silent contemplation and the 10:30 philosophical discourse, there were two hours of Hatha Yoga. This left a small window of breakfast and ablutions opportunity, which would take some adapting too on my part. . .
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Comment by Lilla

November 25th 2007 23:10
Wow Andy,

SO reminiscent of my journeys and stay in India. I was lucky to live there for three years and travelled extensively during my stay.

India has a habit of suprising, and when unprepared India will cough up something a little unpredictable to catch you unawares.

*lol* for me it was Delhi Belly of the worst kind halfway up the Himalayas... I'm sure I left some of my stomach there!

I know this Ashram as I passed through and I would love to hear more of what you learned there... would love to know if you were successful in stilling your 'hippy mind?'

Enjoyed the read, thanks for sharing...

Lilla ...

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