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Queen of the Desert

May 23rd 2008 09:16
I love the Northern Territory. You can drive all day and see unchanging scenery. Red dirt, rocks, straight roads and perfect blue sky. All day everyday, but i didn't get tired of it, i became totally immersed in it and it became my normality, i loved it!
Kings Creek Canyon is immense. We had made plans for get up early and hike to the top. The first section is aptly named "heart attack hill", and by the time we reached the top more than a few of us looked as if it might have that effect. The view from the up there, for me, sums up the NT. You can see for miles and miles, literally there is nothing to be seen apart from what was naturally put there. And once i was able to drag myself up from the ground where i had collapsed in a heap after the climb, i was able to appreciate the view before hiking along the canyon to the highest point and down to the centre, The Garden of Eden. Eden was a welcome relief, with trees providing abundant shade and a stream running through.

In my opinion, The Kings Canyon is a far more impressive Australian landmark than Uluru. I had never heard it before i came away and i know it is the same for a lot of travellers, which is a shame because it is an absolute must.
Back at the station we took some quad bikes out on some outback tracks. This is not something for which i hold much talent. The bikes had 4 or 5 gears (wasn't listening) and you had to tap your foot to change the gears. I don't think i actually got out of second gear, everytime i wanted to i tapped too many times and went back down to first with a lurch which usually sent me towards some sort of bush or rock. Needless to say that my self and my like minded Dutch friend were ambling along at the back of the pack. My the time i returned to my swag i was covered head to toe in red dust, sadly the most convincing tan i would experience on my trip. Another banterful night around the camp fire followed with a box of red wine and much laughter.

My Northern Territory adventure was due to conclude after one more day back in Alice. We had a quick look around the Royal Flying Doctors museum, but like the child i am spent most of my time pretending to fly a plane on a model dashboard and windscreen( are they called that on planes?) with my Dutch quad buddy. Had one more night out NT style at Bo Jangles.
Next stop Cairns.....
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The Rocks

May 21st 2008 03:16
From Alice we travelled to Ulara. From here it is just a short drive through the national park to Kata-Tjuta ( the olga's) and Uluru (Ayers Rock). I was surprised by Kata-Tjuta, it is never spoken of, i was unaware that there was anything near Uluru at all and this is opposite! I did a gorge hike through the Kata-Tjuta and was captivated. Unlike Uluru they are a shapely and round land mass.
It was up at 5am the next morning to check out Uluru at sunrise. My main emotion was that of being very cold i seem to remember. If i am being honest, i was disappointed with Uluru. True, it is an absolute icon for Australia and it is an impressive sight. However i felt nothing else. I had been told that at sunrise the rock changes colour in a spectacular fashion, i must have missed that. It is a very spiritual place also, not just for Aboriginals but many tourists have found so. I am obviously just a pleb!
From Uluru we travelled to Kings Creek Station, which was to be home for a few days. This would be my second swag experience. This was much better as we had a tent and a swag each. The tent became the luggage store and dressing room. I am obviously manning up a bit about the Outback because i loved camping this time round. I went quad biking round the station, got dirty and built a big camp fire. grrr. To finish the day there was a massive case of he giggles, a dijereedoo and a box of goon, of course, before falling asleep under the stars, which was like you see in films!
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Swags and Stuff

May 20th 2008 06:16
I am not a camper. I have camped once before and that was at Glastonbury Festival which doesn't really count. So i am sure you can imagine that i was not overly thrilled with the thought of camping in the Australian outback. It gets worse. We arrived at Banka Banka cattle station, our home for the night in the late afternoon. When waiting for a tent a guy start handing out what looks like sleeping bags and nothing else. Slowly i raise my hand and enquire after tents. No, no we will be sleeping in Swags tonight. It you are unfamiliar with swags they are a bit like sleeping bags with a foam mat in the bottom and a flap at the top. The sort of thing it looks easy for dangerous creatures to crawl in to basically.
So with the swags laid out we build a camp fire, cooked some food and drank goon. All the while casting doubtful looks over my shoulder at what would be my bed. It is surprisingly hard to check your swag for spiders just using the light from your phone, but i perservered and eventually climbed in, pulling the flap over my head. It was a very hot night so soon had the flap down and decided i really needed to go to the loo and it was only 2am. There was no way i was moving through the pitch dark to try and find the toilet block by myself, so i decided to hold it. After a mostly sleepless and uncomfortable night i woke up poking out of my swag with my face in the red dirt being looked down upon my a bush turkey. Not a pleasant way to start the way i can tell you, still was glad to have survived the night!
It was time to get moving to Alice Springs, the heart of Australia. Stopped off at the Devils Marbles on the way. There are a collection of seemingly random rock balls, they are fairly large and seem to have been dropped in the middle of no mans land, hence the name.
We stayed in a hostel on a caravan park so hit the bar with the locals that evening. There didn't appear to be any other backpackers staying there which was nice as it felt less like being on holiday. The bad news of the day was that my hair straighteners blew up. I am not happy about this, those of you who have seen my hair naturally in the heat will understand why!
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The Northern Territory Part 1

May 20th 2008 05:52
When we rocked up at our first swim stop it was clear to be that things were going to get worse before they got better. Because i was a touch rushed i still had to dig my swimmers out of my bag and change. Conscious that i had already made everyone late i told them to go ahead without me and give me directions to the falls. I went diving in to my backpack to discover my aftersun had leaked and my clothes were all highly moisturised. So, eventually headed off vaguely recalling from my directions that i had to make a turning at the bottom of some steps. I made a left. I walked for 30 minutes through the bush and then started to get worried. I could hear rustling of lizards and i suspect snakes and it was very very hot. I had visions of dying alone in the outback on my first full day in Australia...typical! I decided it would be safer to turn back and start again. Eventually i made it to the falls and may i say, it was worth the wait. Florence falls in Litchfield National Park are stunning. The water is clear and hugely refreshing. You can swim out and wallow beneath the force of the tumbling water. We also visited Wangu falls which were larger but far more of a swim across the lake. The place, although beautiful did not have the intimacy of Florence.
My next stop from Darwin was Kakadu National Park. Kakadu is a World heritage site and rightly so. The park is rich with Aboriginal rock art. We were lucky enough to have a very knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide who was able to give us interpretations and timelines of all of the art work. The temperature clocked at 38 degrees.
The Outback in the NT is stunning, it is hugely vast and empty whilst being totally drawing. I finished the evening with a boat ride down the Yellow Water Billabong where i was excited and totally in awe to see some rather large and fierce looking Saltwater Crocs! This was Australia! It was also in Kakadu that i discovered the merits of "Goon". Kakadu also is of note to me as it was the first of many times that i sustaned a bunk bed injury


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The beginning....

May 20th 2008 05:02
Sitting at home in the English sunshine(rare, i know!) i decided my life needed a change, a big one. So it was for this reason that two weeks later i found myself at Heathrow wearing a backpack that was nearly as big as me and standing in a line to check in to fly to Australia, specifically Darwin, via Bangkok and Sydney.
I was striking out alone and couldn't wait. Three days later, after many films, glasses of red wine and being in transit, i touched down in Darwin...i had made it. Feeling rather smug with myself i set off through immigration and my name was called out on the loud speaker. This happened just as i was handing my passport over and the officer saw the look of panic of my face, he stamped me anyway and pointed me in the direction of an office. My luggage was lost. It was over 30 degrees outside and all i had with me was the clothes i was wearing ( jeans, hiking boots and a long sleeved top) Perfect! So i headed in to Darwin a tad over heated. I was not going to be beaten by this, so i headed to the bar! Overall it was a successful night, i received two marriage proposals ( turned both down sadly) and went clubbing with a guy from the air force. I was also introduced to Jagerbombs...so educational as well as enjoyable.
I had arranged to go on a tour through litchfield national park to see some termite mounds and swim at some waterfalls the next day. Unfortunately i didn't get in untill after 5am and slept in and missed my tour. Even more unfortunately my group waited an hour for me to finally arrive, so it was in a sheepish fashion that i boarded the bus muttering apologies and not removing my dark glasses. Not a good start to my backpacking adventure! Things could surely only get better.....
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